Tourist or Peregrino?
Two Views
of Iberia
What is the best way to see Iberia? I was delighted to try
two ways to travel Spain and Portugal. I recommend both, but not for all of
you…. In fact I only had a brief
trial at both the grand tour and even briefer time walking the medieval
pilgrimage route. So perhaps I
need to go back to decide. But probably I won’t walk the 500 miles even if I
had more time… I leave that to Jack and you…..
First to the "luxury" tour: My sister in law Susan and
I had a fabulous 20 day trip traveling with Grand Circle Travel’s “Spain and
Portugal in Depth” April 9-20, 2013. What a group of the most energetic group
of oldsters we could have wanted to gather! (If you want to see the Itinerary,
skip to the bottom.) We were breathless through eleven cities and towns with special
“discoveries” in palaces, homes, museums, horse ranches, ferias, souks, etc. But according to our Spanish guide JuanJo, we were travelers, not tourists - ha!
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| Here is our "luxury"bus |
Then to the middle ages: I went from "luxury" modern travel to the middle ages travel
plan. I met Jack in Pamploma Spain where I joined him and walked on the Camino
Del Santiago del Compostela. And
yes Pilgrim’s Progress is very slow…. Certainly it was slow for this Peregrino…
So maybe I have discovered how
really terrific is the invention of the wheel…
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| Camino view of Villatuerta with fields of rape seed flowers and wheat |
As for the various views, and lenses for experiencing Iberia, I used my point-and-shoot Lumix and my
iphone – that’s two. But my camera photos from the first two weeks got lost –
sigh.. But in fact I had other lenses some borrowed photos and some from the web. See more on this later...
Take home message.
Why should you bother to read this blog? Maybe you shouldn’t, but here is the
bottom line: With at least 3,000 years of history scattered all over this
beautiful peninsula - one can have lots of pithy thoughts, or just absorb and
enjoy. Anne Lamott says there are
Three Essential Prayers: Help, Thanks and WOW! I have surely used the first
two. It seems a good time to focus on the WOW in my daily life. This trip was
such a rich experience, it was difficult
to pick out what I was most grateful to have experienced -the most important - most beautiful or memorable things in
each day. Selecting just one daily WOW proved
hard to do.
So here are my ramblings, which are a combination of the
WOWs and my take home messages to share with you. Perhaps having survived the Geezer trip and then sampling the
Pilgrimage, makes me qualified to provide you with the third edition of
More
Unsolicited Advice for your Travels
through Life
Packing and Anticipation:
Maybe the most fun!? The first WOW was meeting Susan in Atlanta. That meant I had finished packing and
the fun had begun! But the anticipation was fun in itself. They say people are
happiest just before a trip even if it means anxiety about what to pack. With
all that worry, I brought too much- long underwear, sun stuff- and everything
in between. I had worried about bedbugs in the Albergues on the Camino, but at
the end I forgot to bring the bug stuff I bought. But –WOW – I got to Spain!
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| Susan and I enjoying Sunny Spain |
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| All 35 of the "Seasoned Travelers" on the Spain and Portugal in Depth Tour. (Susan is in Orange on the left and I am in purple shirt.) |
Flying all night makes you appreciate the little pleasures: orchid bouquet in the Madrid Hotel. My WOW of the first day. But I didn’t have a photo of it so here is the window scene just above it.
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| Skylight in lobby of Hotel Tryp Ambassador, Madrid - from Hotel website |
You don’t need a
fancy camera. Here are many tricks to bring home memories when you lose
your best pictures (clever trick which I accomplished this trip) First trick –
Journal and draw pictures – which I did, but probably not good enough for prime
time. Second trick: Just use those cell phone photos- they are pretty good! Trick
three: Make sure you travel with other great photographers and hopefully they
will send you photos. So some of the photos here are from Susan. Fourth trick:
Get photos from the internet. For fifth trick, see next note. WOW I maybe could
do this blog without ever going to Spain…
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| DonQuixote and Sancho at the Monument to Miguel de Cervantes, Madrid (photo from internet - freephotooftheday.com) |
Buy the postcards
because you can’t take Photos of the best things such as the Prado Art Museum in Madrid and inside the Escorial Palace. But sometimes you can catch up with the art later. In Lisbon I found a Renoir I could photograph, but us course not as good a photo as on the postcard. And those cityscapes – who has a lens
that big?? Or who wants to carry that all over Spain?
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| Renior painting at the Lisbon Gulbenkian Museum |
Just flow with the
history –So who wins the Iberian prize - the Romans, the Greeks, the
Visigoths, the Moors, the Kings, the Priests, or the modern dictator? Answer –
they all did. And then they all lost it, one by one. The best advantage of have
many centuries of history – you can try despotism and terrorism with many
centuries of variations. We could see in walls built around cities, palaces,
cathedrals all were built over where original early peoples worshiped nature –
then vandals from the north built on top, then horse riding Arabs from the
South built mosques and tile lined palaces, then the wandering priests and
Roman Catholics from everywhere built cathedrals on top of mosques, then the various
Royal families built castles, and then the homegrown dictator. They all roared
in, killed who they didn’t like, took over all the towns women and fields and
took all the riches from the poor to build their own palaces… What is the
difference between all of them? Despots taking care of themselves, and poor
people giving money or their lives to make it happen. I think If I were learning all this in
Spanish schools – who would you trust to be in charge now…. ? Which government
is worse,,, or better? So if there is a moral to this perhaps it is to be glad
that after the Europeans got to the new world and after obliterating Indians, they
became us. Now aren’t we are lucky that we haven’t been invaded in the last few
centuries– we just have home grown
terrorism and our own forms of great and sometimes terrible government.
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| Summer Palace in Cascais Portugal with 2 large smoke stacks just for the kitchen |
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| Toledo Cathedral (Photo from Wikipedia) |
If you are going to
let those other people take over your country, make sure you build something
really fabulous so the invaders don't tear down your building- they just take it over– like the Cordoba Mosque ( now Catholic Cathedral) I think this was the biggest WOW for me - but so sad that this was a Mosque that no Muslims can worship in now- Its now got a Catholic Cathedral in the middle.. .
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| Photo from Wikipedia |
or The Alhambra (the red fortress/palace on the hill built by Moors)
in 899 which was so gorgeous that
the Spanish Kings all wanted to live in it… Really spectacular. The tiles were incredible, but someone
stole all the rugs which I think I would want in there to stay warm…. But then
they didn’t invite me to spend the night –
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| Alhambra (Red Castle) in Granda (Photos by Susan) In fact, the guard chased me out of the fountain where I was posing for this photo… |
If a King invites you to come live here, will you come? Holy Toledo! 79 churches for 100,000 people and the 11th largest Catholic Cathedral in world.
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| Photo Vista of Toledo (photo by Susan) |
But an old synagogue from the 1100’s has been restored, and is maintained now by the Catholic church. There were only 2 Jewish
families in Toledo so in the 1990’s the King of Spain brought rabbis from Israel
and extended an invitation for Jewish families to move to Toledo- but there are
still only 2 families. So there still aren't any Jewish services held here. Somehow I guess they heard the message from the
Inquisition loud and clear – 500 years apparently doesn’t erase the memory of chased out, being annihilated, or converted.
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| Toledo Synagogue (Photo from Internet) |
El Greco won’t
impress a 9 year old- So don’t expect a WOW from them.. But El Greco – The
Greek – left a wonderful painting in a dark small chapel – huge wall size 400
years ago- still in fabulous shape without being cleaned up! His typically
elongated figures are still bright, somehow making beautiful art of the death
of the patriarch. Somehow Isabel was not impressed with the picture of people
flying around, but I was.
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| El Greco's Entierro del Conde de Orgaz in a small chapel in Toledo (Photo from internet) |
Don’t miss the “Discovery Bus” Throughout our GrandCircle Tour, Juan Jo – our expert guide - would
offer a “Discovery” – a special outing not on the itinerary. These varied from
a trip to the fish/food market to windmills to stopping at Franco’s tomb which
was carved out of a mountainside. But our best special “discovery” was in
Seville – and the Feria – a Festival of Flamenco. (no not flamingo).. Throughout the city we saw women dressed
in multicolored long ruffled dresses, flouncy, sexy and historic walking in heels
and lace shawls to the fair. The
lucky ones rode in horse drawn carriages. Most had Cell phones – a wonderful
time warp image. All headed to the Flamenco festival –
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| (Photo by Susan) |
Don't forget the sunscreen - so you can enjoy it all. But don't forget the fleece and windbreakers- no bathing beauty shots for us... It was April on the Atlantic coast and windy...
Even if a bad wind is
blowing- get on the ship. Don’t miss the chance to step foot on another
continent! After a windy boat
ride across the straits of Gibraltar, our day in Tangiers was fascinating. Almost all the women wore at least headscarves
and many wore hijab clothing. Even some men wore the flowing robes. Made me
feel like I was naked especially in the little narrow streets where the men
hawking trinkets were VERY persistent.
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| Minaret in Tangiers (Photo by Susan) |
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| Berbers selling at the market in Tangiers (Photo by Susan) |
A camel is not a
horse… Who knew holding on to the back of the saddle was really important? WOW what a wild design a camel.. they
get up on their back knees first. I just got up and down, but it was good fun.
A long ride would be even better. But guess I need to come back to Africa.
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| Photos by Susan |
Living statues – the new way of earning a living just standing there. I could not stand that still – even if my life depended on it. All over we saw people clowning? Busquers? This one was quite clever – blacked himself all over – and could actually juggle…
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| Living "Statue" in Cascais Portugal |
A Bus museum? So
why would I want to go to the Lisbon bus museum? Ah but don’t miss it. Coches is actually the Cinderella
coaches.. not the 50 passenger bus we were on.. Coches suitable for kings and
princesses and WOW gold wheels. …. And some even grand enough to be
assassinated in…
If you want to find
all your missing things – go to Lisbon… Apparently all good Catholics pray
to St Anthony to find lost things (at least my Mother in law recommended it). St Anthony left Lisbon to go to Padua, Italy, but
the Lisboans still claim him. Here he is
- not lost. That must be where all your lost things are – see under him?
Don’t worry about
balancing your diet on a trip. We stayed in terrific hotels on the tour and
we were certainly well fed. One of our best meals was in a home in the village of Salinas with these wonderful women- salad plate, soup, chicken in almond sauce, eggplant sautéed and fruit bowl.
Often in the meals veggies, fiber and whole grains could be found, but you had to look hard. (It could be that balancing diet in
Spain is as hard as balancing their country’s budget.) But don’t worry, when you travel, just
eat everything that comes in sight. In Spain and Portugal your dinner plate
is approximately ¾ meat, ¼ starch ¼ olives. Iceberg lettuce with tomatoes
and tuna was a favorite salad. Sides were red wine and white bread and
maybe flan for dessert. Another great meal was in
Tangiers- lamb & chicken pie, salad, fruit, etc.
Being a foodie, I took lots of photos of what I ate, but most of those photos are gone. The one picture I have is of what I truly
appreciated -a bowl of vegetables that may look terrible to you, but after you
walked 10 miles, you would have loved them too….
Sometimes you can
appreciate the wonderful invention- the wheel. And sometimes you wonder what we are missing by using it all the
time. Hundreds of thousands of peregrinos walk the Camino Del Santiago
every year recreating the pilgrimage of medieval penitents. Jack is walking
every inch of the most common 500 mile route. So I only dipped my toe in the journey enough
to do 44 miles in 4 days. What a fabulous way to see Spain and so completely
different from riding on a tour bus! Mostly well behaved travelers crowding
into Albergues bunk beds and stuffing in whatever feast / or humble food we
could find. Walking, walking, walking. Thank goodness for walking poles for the
downhill! Beautiful countryside
with gorgeous landscapes of yellow rapeseed and wheat fields and budding
grape vines. Old Old cities - 1,000 or more year old buildings - WOW
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| Pamploma |
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| Sculptures of Peregrinos on the top of the mountain between Cizor Menor and Uterga |
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| Jack found the Madonna del Perdon- He must be on a pilgrimage.... |
“Sleep tight and
don’t let the bedbugs bite”. The Albergues I stayed in were really great. Pack
with dusty pilgrims. Fortunately I did
not meet any bedbugs there… See my worries worked – they must have seen me coming and ran away.
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| Albergue Maralotx in Cirauki |
WOW Yes I could walk
and speak Spanish at the same time. Jack sets an incredible pace walking
which I could not keep up, and needed to rest. We met a wonderful Spanish
couple – living in Switzerland the Sanchezes. They walked at my pace but they
had no English. The 4th day with the 14 miles, about killed my shins-
they were cheerleaders getting me through to the last Albergue in Los Arcos…. I
was so glad to get on the bus from Los Arcos to Longrono–and not have to walk. It took me about 5 days to have my legs stop hurting.
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| Jack and Victoria and Daniel Sanchez in Estella |
But I am so glad I did walk at least some on the Camino. Jack
continued walking and three weeks later he reached Santiago –often walking 20
miles a day.
When the kids invite
you in – go... In Villatuerta, Navarra, the Colegio Publico San Veremundo
elementary school invited pilgrims in to talk about their journey. The kids
were 8-9 and 10 years old and in English class. They wanted to hear about us and why we
were on our journey. Their first question was “How old are you?” They really
were excited when Jack asked who were their favorite soccer teams…
Yes I did walk 44 miles of the 500 miles of the Camino. At 10 miles a day I did OK, but 14 was a bit much. My 44 miles were done, but Jack had another 350 or more to go- and he was still smiling. He did finish - getting to Santiago de Compostela and went on to Finisterra and the Ocean.
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| End of my trek and ready for the bus to Longrono - |
So what is the best way to see Iberia? Whether the geezer
bus way or walking – Spain was wonderful. There were so many amazing things
that made me glad to be alive and healthy enough to travel and appreciate it. Would not want to pick either the
tourist trip or the trekking…– glad I did both! and Thanks Susan and Jack for the great adventures on the way!
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| Lisbon pigeons love a good meal. I wasn't good at being a statue, but Susan got a good photo. |
For those of you who
want the details here is the Itinerary and highlights:
Madrid including Prado Museum and side trip to Escorial Palace
and Franco’’s Tomb
Cordoba with Great Cathedral in giant Mosque from middle ages
with red and white arches that stretch as far as the eye can see
Toledo- traveled through viewing El Greco’s painting 400 yr old El Enterro del Leon de Argaz unretouched and the Jewish synagogue now
in Catholic caretaking
Granada visit
Alhambra built in 1200’s with elaborate tile work. Built by Mooors and
appreciated by Spanish Kings, so has been preserved as well as having more
things built into it.
Torremolinos – on the
Mediterranean and tour of Malaga, founded
3,000 yrs ago by Phoenicians, but
with remains from many civilizations: Greek, Carthagian Romans, Visigoths,
byzantines, Moors as well as more recent – last 800 years of Christians, and
even new condos. Its even home of Pablo Picasso- but like all the others – he
moved on.
Lovely home meal in small town: Salinas. Passed Olive tree farms, where we saw a few of the 85
varieties
Tangiers, Morocco
Day trip to Casbah and Rug Merchant;-I can actually say I have been to Africa!
– sort of! Got on a camel! Viewed Rock of
Gibraltar
Rondo –Briefly visited old
town Bull ring and ravine
Sevilla – Flamenco Feria, Palace
Portugal Horse
Ranch – Caudelaria Brito Paes- 6th generation owners
Lisbon Portugal – old city and Coche Museum. I found St
Anthony- at least he is not lost…. Passed Cork farms where tree bark is
stripped every 6-8 years for hundreds of years.
Sintra and Cascais
–Day trip to beach towns and National Summer Palace built in 1300’s
Hiking on the Camino
Pamploma, Spain - I flew from Lisbon to Pamploma where I met Jack. He had walked from Saint-Jean Pied-de-Port France over the Pyrennes to Pamploma. We stayed in the Pension Eslava.
Day 1 hiking to Uterga -We hiked 16 kilometers- 10 miles. We stayed in the modern Albergue Camino del Perdon
Day 2 hiking to Cirauki - Hiked 15 kilometers - 9.3 miles. Stayed in the Albergue Maralux in this mountain top town
Day 3 hiking to Estella- Hiked 16 kilometers - 10 miles. Stayed in Albergue Parroquial
Day 4 hiking to Los Arcos -We hiked 21 kilometers - 13 miles to Los Arcos. Jack stayed there and I took a bus to
Longrono where I hiked another 2 kilometers from bus stop to the really the nice Hotel Marques Murrieta. Got an early morning flight back home.
Thanks for traveling
with me. Let me know if you have enjoyed this, or have a suggestions. And I’d
love to hear about your vacations.
